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Ellie and Me - T5 travels, Scotland ... (mostly)

Postby Mary » Sun Sep 25, 2016 11:23 am

Send your comments on this post to postbox@mzawf.org :myopinion

Hooray :applause :applause More adventures from the intrepid chums :-D
Whose first adventure you can read here .... viewtopic.php?f=26&t=1463 :mz
................................

Before I start on writing up my blog with my latest travels for your delectation, I feel that I must inform you that there has been an addition to my tiny travel group. This is 'Sapper'.
Sapper.png
Sapper

Now, Sapper is a VERY special little 'VDub dog'. He was knitted for my father by his brother Graeme (sadly, no longer with us – he was such a lovely, fun guy who died far too young), when Dad went out to Malaya in the course of his National Service. Sapper is 64 (human) years old!!
Quite apart from his initial journey to the Far East, he has travelled, with me (mostly) to many European Countries, to several US States, to the Middle East and to Australia. He has been darned, re-stitched and glued several times, poor chap, but he's still ready for many more journeys, so I asked Dad if I could 'adopt' him and take him with me on my adventures. Luckily, he said, 'Yes, of course!' So now he hangs from his teeny-weeny harness in my campervan, looking out at the views and adding to his total mileage every day.
He also has several good points: He doesn't cost anything to feed, he doesn't need to be walked, he doesn't need to go out for a 'pee' in the middle of the night and he isn't a 'backseat driver' – hahaha.
Not absolutely sure that he'll make much of a guard dog, but I love him. :heart
..............
5 weeks away – Another major Road Trip: Scotland (mostly!)

So - five weeks away, 1,973.80 miles driven, five ferry journeys, two countries and goodness knows how many counties journeyed through, lots of brilliant memories and meetings with family, my lovely friends and strangers (some of whom are now friends). I think it's going to take me quite a while to write up all of my experiences in this blog.

Apologies that I STILL can't blog 'on the go' – obstacles are: a) very little data coverage on the West Coast of Scotland, b) my ancient camera will not link to my tab and c) in general, after a day of driving, walking, setting up, cooking and, just maybe, having a glass of something, I'm too cream-crackered to sit down and write the day's events up!! But … I do make copious notes and reading them back whilst I'm doing these updates brings all of the experiences flooding back!

Plans are already being made for the next trip – hahaha.

My journeys, as usual, started with an 8-hour drive up to Cumbria (Ellie slightly sick on the last part from Sedburgh to Dent (very winding road after the turn-off from the M6, but see later posts). Whilst I was sitting in a queue on the M40, watching red kites riding the thermals overhead, it occurred to me that although I often praise the beautiful village of Dent, I haven't really shown you anything of the place.

So whilst I was there, I took a few photos so that you can see why I love it so much (although photos can't impart the warm welcome you will receive and the marvellous live music you'll hear (if you arrive when the Mini Music festivals are on (March and October) and the main (free) Music and Beer Festival (happens every year, last full weekend of June)!!).
Mary 1.png
Lovely B&W photo from a couple of years ago of a relatively small gathering for a 'session'. Left to right: Mick Hodgkinson (owner of Conder Farm campsite); Dusty Spencer (mandolin/banjo and vocals); Vicky Allen (vocals); Matthew Kaunz (on floor – guitar, vocals (and almost any other instrument you can think of!)); Me (guitar, vocals); Roger Mac (rhythm guitar, vocals); Jo Martin (concertina).
Credit: Shell Sedgwick

Conder Farm Campsite. I'm lucky – I get to park in the 'Mary Space', rather than on the field -).png
Conder Farm Campsite. I'm lucky – I get to park in the 'Mary Space', rather than on the field -)

Cobbled streets …..png
Cobbled streets ….

…… leading up to the Sun Inn (where the music happens.png
…… leading up to the Sun Inn (where the music happens :-D

Dent church. There is a strange grave slab, just outside the main door into the church, with a hole in it. Legend has it that a vampire was buried there. Ask the locals – they'll tell you all about it!.png
Dent church. There is a strange grave slab, just outside the main door into the church, with a hole in it. Legend has it that a vampire was buried there. Ask the locals – they'll tell you all about it!

Wonderful 'Green Man', outside Dingle Cottage.png
Wonderful 'Green Man', outside Dingle Cottage

Looking down the cobbles to the George and Dragon pub..png
Looking down the cobbles to the George and Dragon pub.

One of the many reasons for visiting Dent this time was to celebrate my friend, Matt's, 40th birthday party - a total surprise to him (and that's amazing that he knew nothing about it in such a small village!) Matt and his wife Charlotte hold a very special place in my heart, as I was the 'officiant' at their handfasting five years ago. They now have two gorgeous little kiddie-winks.
The inevitable music sessions took place in the Sun Inn - all was well.
Just another fantastic session in the Sun Inn. .png
Just another fantastic session in the Sun Inn. Left to right: Matt (playing the dobro, using one of his birthday presents – a dobro strap commissioned by us, his friends, and made by our super skilled friend, Rod Boyes of Pinegrove Leather (http://www.pinegroveleather.co.uk/)); Blanty (extraordinarily talented musician (the Human Jukebox) and me (plopping in a few harmonies!).

From Dent, again as usual, I headed off to see my cousin, Jan Walker, in Fletchertown, Cumbria. Ellie sick again after leaving the M6. Sigh. However …. THIS WAS THE LAST TIME SHE WAS SICK FOR THE REST OF OUR TRAVELS!!!! Result :-)

One of the highlights for me whilst with Jan, was a 'walk-over' of a part of Caldbeck Common - looking for archaeological 'features' with the West Cumbrian Archaeological Society. It was a scorching hot day, the heather was in full bloom (my nostrils were stuffed with the heavenly scent of it – goodness knows what it did to the dogs' noses!) and I was fascinated by the things we saw – no actual proof of what's really there without digging!!
Setting off, the heather all amongst the blooming heather, up on Caldbeck Common.png
Setting off, the heather all amongst the blooming heather, up on Caldbeck Common

The view out, once we'd reached the highest point.png
The view out, once we'd reached the highest point

One of the huge swallets (or swallow hole or sinkhole) spotted during our walk.png
One of the huge swallets (or swallow hole or sinkhole) spotted during our walk. These things are freckin' dangerous. Doesn't look it? Down in the bottom left-hand corner of the photo there is a really deep drop down into the earth. You'd be crazy to go down there. I kept Ellie and Kaz (Jan's dog) on short leads, I can assure you.

We also saw pits where there had been surface coal-mining, ancient field 'markers', very old walls and ruins and (possibly?) grave slabs. A fantastic day out!
Both dogs were pretty much tuckered out by the end of the day :-)

Other highlights: Popped to the local stable to get some manure for Jan's veg patch (forgot to take my wellies. Trainers washed in her machine when we got back - hehehe), another of her famous BBQs, me stacking more logs for her for winter and a visit to Keswick (which I will nominate as the most dog-friendly town in the UK – any others you can suggest?):
How many dogs can you spot.png
How many dogs can you spot? :-)

Keswick .png
Keswick – touristy? Yep! Beautiful? Yep! Welcoming to all? YES!!

Before I finish this 'pre-wilding/campervanning' update I give you a couple of Lessons Learned:

Lessons Learned:

- It's always worth popping into charity shops whilst you're away. I picked up LOADS of second-hand OS maps, at a fraction of the RRP for new ones, whilst I was away. It doesn't matter if they're older versions (after all, footpaths rarely change very much (having said that, I've been caught out in that respect on more than one occasion – nothing major, if you have a decent sense of direction you can easily find your way)).

- I was give a small fire-pit by Jan. Didn't get an opportunity to use it this time, but I'm going to invest in a flint and a small hand-axe for future travel :-D


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Ellie and Me - T5 travels, Scotland ... (mostly)

Postby Mary » Wed Sep 28, 2016 9:46 am

Off we go, wild camping :-)

Laden with goodies from Jan's vegetable garden and well stocked with provisions, I bid a fond farewell to her and her dogs and, on the recommendation of a mutual friend, Chris, headed for Rockville. It's a pretty seaside village along the stretch of the north shore of the Solway Firth known as the Colvend Coast.
Parking in the village itself was either forbidden or time-limited and I wanted to walk. However, I found a free car park on the left-hand side just before you enter the village.
Looking out from Rockcliffe, with Rough Island nearest to the shore and Hestan Island the the distance.png
Looking out from Rockcliffe, with Rough Island nearest to the shore and Hestan Island in the the distance

Rough Island is a bird sanctuary, accessible at low tide, but unfortunately for me the tide was in (and still coming in), so I wasn't able to get there. Hestan Island was one of many sites used by smugglers to stow contraband and has copper mines (which were mined in the 1840s). I struck out inland to visit the Mote of Mark.
Mote of Mark.png
Mote of Mark

The Mote of Mark was an important Dark Age trading post. A stronghold stood at the top of the rocky mound and was occupied from C5th to C7th. A number of interesting finds have been made there, including fragments of pottery from France, fragments of glass from Germany and bangles made from Yorkshire jet. It was somewhat overcast when we set off, walking up the Mote itself on the Woodpecker Walk and then onto the Muckle Trail (total 4 miles) but the weather soon cleared to quite a sunny day.
Guess which trail I was on .png
Guess which trail I was on? ;-)

The views from the Mote and the Muckle Trail were spectacular!
Looking out over Auchencairn Bay from the Mote of Mark.png
Looking out over Auchencairn Bay from the Mote of Mark

View from higher up on the Muckle Trail - glorious.png
View from higher up on the Muckle Trail - glorious

A little leg-weary after the partly steep and very undulating walk, I drove off vaguely Westwards, looking for an overnight spot. None to be found! So I wended my way to Wigtown, which I've visited on a couple of occasions previously, and parked up for the night by the main church.
Wild camping, Wigtown, Dumfries and Galloway – all safely set up for the night .png
Wild camping, Wigtown, Dumfries and Galloway – all safely set up for the night :-)

Seen: Newt and weasel/stoat crossing the road in front of the van, peacock and fritillary butterflies in the wildflower meadows at the Mote of Mark.

Strange thing seen: In the car park at Rockcliffe, a man waked into the car park, opened his car door, took off his trousers and drove away in his shirt and underpants!! How very odd.

Supper: Gammon steak with fresh runner beans from Jan's garden – YUM!

Bad experience (the only one of the whole trip): I was woken by drunken louts walking back from the pub after closing time. The idiots decided that it would be 'fun' to throw stones at the 'van windows. I checked the following morning and, fortunately, no damage done. Pillocks :thumbsdown
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Ellie and Me - T5 travels, Scotland ... (mostly)

Postby Mary » Fri Sep 30, 2016 2:59 pm

North and North again.

I was rudely awoken, rather early, by the crashing of bins …. it was refuse and recycling collection day in Wigtown! Looking out of the window of the van at steady drizzle and hundreds of swallows swooping low to scoop up insects, I cooked myself a hearty breakfast (bacon, eggs, toast with marmalade and several cups of tea). With the weather improving (and after a quick visit to the excellent butcher in the town for fresh meat for Ellie), I drove up-country to the last of the Visitors centres in the Galloway Forest Park I had yet to visit, at Kirroughtree.

Here there are five trails to walk, and many separate mountain bike trails (I saw one chap in lots of different areas – quite amusing – I'd come round a corner and he's be crossing the trail ahead of me, or I'd be walking on the trail and he'd be cycling on a parallel bike trail. We laughed and waved to each other every time :-) ) The facilities there are excellent (bike hire, showers, bike cleaning area, orienteering courses, etc).
At  Kirroughtree, where one of the mountain bike trails passes over one of the walking routes.png
At Kirroughtree, where one of the mountain bike trails passes over one of the walking routes

Ellie and I walked the majority of 4 of the 5 trails (approximately 6 miles). Some lovely (if a tad cloudy) views, especially out from the Larg Hill Trail.
View out from Larg Hill Trail..png
View out from Larg Hill Trail.

Finally, we trod down to lower levels and skirted round Little Bruntis and Bruntis Loch.
Lille Bruntis (in the rain).png
Lille Bruntis (in the rain)

Ellie at Little Bruntis.png
Ellie at Little Bruntis

Calm and peaceful Bruntis Loch (after the rain).png
Calm and peaceful Bruntis Loch (after the rain)

Seen: Buzzard, Red Kite, LOTS of fungi in the wooded areas (I can only identify half a dozen mushrooms, but my friend Michael Stewart would have been in seventh heaven!). From here, I drove to the Cairnsmore of Fleet Nature Reserve.
(https://www.visitscotland.com/info/see- ... ve-p334041)
There is a small information centre (where I met a lovely family, picnicing indoors!), toilets and parking. And, of course, the walk to the Big Water of Fleet Viaduct!
the Big Water of Fleet Viaduct.png
The Big Water of Fleet Viaduct

The Portpatrick & Wigtownshire Joint Railway, often known as the Port Road, linked Stranraer to Castle Douglas where it made an end-on connection with a line to Dumfries. The route spanned the Big Water of Fleet by means of a 300-yard viaduct. Each of its 20 segmental arches comprise six courses of brick whilst the spandrels are in stone. 1940 saw the piers strengthened with brick encasings and the two sides of the structure tied together using bullhead rail and connecting rods beneath the arches. In 1935, it reputedly appeared in Alfred Hitchcock's film version of John Buchan's thriller 'The 39 Steps'.

Leaving the Viaduct, I went looking for a wild camping site. To my horror, my usual spot had been taken by a 4x4 with caravan – how very dare they!!
My alternative parking spot (finally found after quite a search and the sun had gone down) will, henceforth, be known as 'Midge City'!! I'd been told by a chap in Wigtown that, 'The midge season is nearly over', but – pah! - was it? No, it was NOT. I slathered myself in home-made repellent (Jan's recipe), lit citronella candles and bunged up every 'ventilation hole' that I could find (I'm actually itching now whilst typing this!). Venturing outside was only done because it HAD to be done and even then for as short a time as possible, with as little of my skin exposed as possible.

Midge 'pome'

When the midges bite
In the middle of the night -
Get out the citronella!
Dig those candles out
And set them all alight -
Bring out the citronella!
No need to frown
As the sun goes down -
Praise to the citronella!
Make up a spray and
Squirt it all around -
Hooray, for citronella!

Jan's midge repelling recipe:
10 drops of each, essential oils: citronella/lemon, lavender and cedar, mix with a small amount of water. Sloosh around to get an emulsion – SPRAY!!!!

Morning. And only half a dozen 'major' bites – which I count as a success, considering that the little blighters just love to bite me normally. There were still swarms of them about, so it was 'up and off' early – but what a view to wake up to on a sunny morning :-)
View out from Midge City, Galloway Forest Park.png
View out from Midge City, Galloway Forest Park

Set off up the A713 'Tourist Route' with very few cars on the road, which enabled me to gawp at the scenery as much as I liked. Scanning the map, I spotted a likely overnight place, so off we went to Lochwinnock and thence on to Muirshiel Country Park. What a lucky find! Great walking trails, toilets, hot water, showers, barbecue area (even an Electric Vehicle Charging Point!). There are only two things missing here – electric hook-up (ehu) and a fee – hahaha.
Lovely, flat car park – happy me!.png
Lovely, flat car park – happy me!

And happy Ellie, too!.png
And happy Ellie, too!

I spoke with the warden and asked if it would be ok for me to overnight there. She looked me, the van and Ellie over and told me that it wasn't normally permitted but that it would be fine for me to stay. How kind. I wandered off along the lower-level paths and along the River Calder. So tranquil.
One of the BBQ areas at Muirshiel Country Park.png
One of the BBQ areas at Muirshiel Country Park

River Calder in the late afternoon sunshine.png
River Calder in the late afternoon sunshine

Supper: Cumberland sausage, onions, garlic, mushrooms, eggs and the last of Jan's runner beans. Delicious! There were midges here too, but not as many as the previous night. Another chap arrived in a tiny campervan. We spoke. He had a springer spaniel with him, which he had rescued and brought back from Hong Kong!
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Ellie and Me - T5 travels, Scotland ... (mostly)

Postby Mary » Sun Oct 02, 2016 8:54 am

Muirshiel to Toward

Forgot to mention that this place (Muirshiel Country Park) is very popular in the evenings with runners, walkers and dog-walkers. Also – a group of young adults turned up, with pizzas and soft drinks, and headed down to the BBQ area, but they were no trouble at all – no noise, no screeching round the car park in their cars.

Also – a car turned up at about 9.30 pm, with L(earner)-plates on it. A swap of drivers and then a full 1.5 hours of driving practice – 3-point turns, reversing, driving up and down the single-track road – all very quietly. What a great way of getting experience of driving, especially on the sometimes-rather-scary local roads!!

Come the morning, the only thing I could 'complain' about was that one of the youngsters had tried to 'post' a pizza box into the doggie 'do' bin. I had to remove it and put it next to the (full) 'normal' bins and tell the warden when she turned up. She laughed and told me not to worry – all of the bins are emptied at least once a day.

More information for the whole of the Clyde Muirshiel Regional Park may be found at:

http://www.clydemuirshiel.co.uk/

There were still a few midges about as it was early, but I ignored them, made myself a cuppa and headed off to walk two of the higher level trails (Windy Hill and the Mine Track – total 8 miles – the last 3 of which were done in just under 40 minutes – it takes me a while to get my 'walking legs' back and it was so misty, nothing much to see, on the return trip that I just 'yomped' along.).
Walking up Windy Hill, Muirshiel Country Park. This photo (taken on my tablet) doesn't do justice to the brilliant hue of the heather. Wish I'd taken it with my camera..png
Walking up Windy Hill, Muirshiel Country Park. This photo (taken on my tablet) doesn't do justice to the brilliant hue of the heather. Wish I'd taken it with my camera.

Looking up to Windy Hill (and yes, I did get right to the top ).png
Looking up to Windy Hill (and yes, I did get right to the top :-) )

Walking along the Mine Track..png
Walking along the Mine Track.

When I got back to the Visitor Centre, there was a work party there, planting new trees, cleaning out the gutters on the buildings and generally tidying the place up (sensibly, they all had full midge-proof gear on – Ellie wasn't at all sure about them in such garb, but quickly realised that they WERE humans and that there were plenty of hands to give her a stroke and a fuss). The majority of the work party were local young adults with learning disabilities – great to see the local community involved with projects like that.

The warden asked me if I would like some fresh water (the water in the toilet/shower block is not considered 'safe to drink'). They had connected up a hose to the drinking water in their office, so I filled every container that I had! Again – such kindness. I must say that all of the staff were really nice here. If I'm in the area again I will definitely pop back for another visit. I'd been told by the other chap in a camper that another area of the park, Castle Semple, was also good for overnighting, so took a quick side-trip to see what it was like. 
I parked just a few spaces away from this beauty!!  A very nice French couple, with their dog..png
I parked just a few spaces away from this beauty!! A very nice French couple, with their dog.

The Visitor Centre here looks out over Castle Semple Loch, with walking trails and many water-based activities (also got good Internet connection with my myfi gadget), but I was intent on moving further North so that I could take the ferry from Gourock to Hunter's Quay, just North of Dunnon and into Argyll).
Now, this was my first time taking the campervan on a ferry and I was somewhat apprehensive. But – people do it every day, so I just got on with it.
Waiting to board at Gourock. I met a lady with a Sheltie in the queue – the only other Sheltie I saw in the whole of the trip!!.png
Waiting to board at Gourock. I met a lady with a Sheltie in the queue – the only other Sheltie I saw in the whole of the trip!!

Off we go! Ellie wasn't at all phased by the ferry crossing .png
Off we go! Ellie wasn't at all phased by the ferry crossing :-)

Hunter's Quay, here we come..png
Hunter's Quay, here we come.

Arriving, I found fuel and then headed down the East coast towards Toward. After a bit of a search, I found a spot to wild camp. There, I met an elderly lady walking her dog and asked her if it would be ok to stay there. She said it would and asked me if I had enough water. If not, she lived just up the road and I'd be welcome to fill up at her house. Again – such kindness the Scots showed me.
A nice walk of a couple of miles along the beach at Toward. .png
A nice walk of a couple of miles along the beach at Toward.

The overnight spot was close to the Toward Sailing Club and I sat in the twilight, watching the sailing boats and sea kayaks going out and marvelled at the precision of the boats coming back in to their buoys.
Looking toward Toward Point..png
Looking toward Toward Point.

Suddenly, it seemed as though I just blinked once and all of the lights along the opposite shore came on, twinkling!
The pretty lights of Wemyss Bay, from Toward..png
The pretty lights of Wemyss Bay, from Toward.

Slept to the sound of curlews (a sound I know well, as it was out family 'whistle/call' when my brother and I were young – Mum and Dad didn't like to have to shout our names, so they curlew-whistled and we knew it was time to come back from wherever we were :-) )

Lesson learned: No midges on the coast – hahaha

Seen: Grouse, Sparrow Hawk (on a telephone wire), Curlews, Oystercatchers, Kittiwakes
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Ellie and Me - T5 travels, Scotland ... (mostly)

Postby Mary » Wed Oct 05, 2016 12:47 pm

From Toward to Inverary

I woke at 12.45 am. My sleep patterns change dramatically when I'm campervanning (especially when I'm wild camping). I seem to sleep in 4-5 hour 'chunks'. I remembered that I'd seen an article called 'The myth of the eight-hour sleep'. Having researched it, I found that a scientist, Roger Ekirch, had carried out experiments that showed that his subjects eventually settled into a very distinct sleeping pattern. They slept first for four hours, then woke for one or two hours before falling into a second four-hour sleep.
His book At Day's Close: Night in Times Past unearthed more than 500 references to this segmented sleeping pattern - in diaries, court records, medical books and literature, from Homer's Odyssey to an anthropological account of modern tribes in Nigeria. Interesting – eh? Anyway, when I awoke, the sky was clear – full of stars – with the Milky Way standing out clearly. Woke again later, to the sound of pouring rain hitting the roof of the van and then again at 07.15, to a clear, bright day.
Sandbank.png

Set off Northwards towards Sandbank and then took the scenic route Westwards on the B836. By this time, single-track roads were becoming the 'norm' :-)
Heading South once more, I stopped at the breathtaking Tighnabruaich Viewpoint, with far-reaching views out over Loch Riddon!
Loch Riddon.png

Here, a very nice couple of gentlemen offered to take a photo of me, with this view behind me. Having been wild camping for several days, I thanked them but declined – :lol: Down to Tighnabruaich we went and had a lovely walk along the seafront. This is a very 'arty' village, with several galleries. Oh – and some rather 'scary' 'mannequins' dotted around.
Understandably, Ellie didn't want to hang around too long near this one!!.png
Understandably, Ellie didn't want to hang around too long near this one!!

Carrying on along the coast road, we took a side-trip to Portavadie. Which is basically all modern - a marina with spa, hotel etc. Not my thing at all – oh, how the 'other half' lives!
Portavadie Marina – a few bobs worth here!!.png
Portavadie Marina – a few bobs worth here!!

Up the Eastern side of Loch Fyne, now, to Otter Ferry – the best part of the day so far :-)
Here there is a lovely pub, the Oystercatcher. It has two large car parks, in one of which an overnight stay is permitted on the condition that a) at least one drink is bought and b) a small donation is made towards the RNLI and the upkeep of the local moorings/buoys.

http://www.theoystercatcher.co.uk/

The staff were very friendly. I noticed that they had live music on occasionally and proposed that if I returned, I'd play for my supper and a free overnight stay. I expected the lady behind the bar to laugh at the joke but, no, she said that would be great and just to let them know when to expect me so that they could publicise it!! Wow!
The Oystercatcher, Otter Ferry. Lovely. The two chaps under the tree were French – and fascinated by Ellie! Perhaps they don't have Shelties in France.png
The Oystercatcher, Otter Ferry. Lovely. The two chaps under the tree were French – and fascinated by Ellie! Perhaps they don't have Shelties in France??

Continuing up Loch Fyne, I paid a brief visit to Castle Lachlan – a delightful ruined castle with a wooden walkway enabling people to get to it.
Old Castle Lachlan.png
Old Castle Lachlan

'No overnight parking' here and the seafood restaurant was closed, so moved on. The heavens opened and the rain hissed down. Hoping for a delicious seafood supper (and maybe asking if I could overnight in the car park), I stopped at the Loch Fyne Oyster Bar, Cairndow. It was packed. And NO DOGS allowed. So onwards again. Time was ticking on and I wanted to find somewhere to bed down and, with no obvious wild camping places along the A83 I found myself in Inverary. The seafront/harbour parking areas had large signs: 'No overnight parking', 'No sleeping in vehicles between 11 pm and 7 am' etc., but I parked up anyway and went to take a wander round the town.
Inverary.png
Inverary

I think I can best describe Inverary as a 'shadow' town. On the seafront, there are plenty of touristy shops, but behind that 'façade' is a town of many derelict buildings. I was a little concerned about leaving the van in the car park, but as I was walking back towards it I spotted an elderly chap in a wheelchair in a small alleyway between two pubs, so I stopped to chat with him for half an hour or so. When I told him of my worries about overnighting in the car park, he laughed and told me, “Och, there's only one traffic warden for the whole of Argyll and he's not due until (thinks for a short while) – Tuesday week!” I laughed too and told him that if I did get a fine I'd be after him for the money ;-)

After fixing something to eat, I took another wander – this time to one of the pubs, The George Hotel, for a pint. Splendid place – beams, nooks and a bar with (I imagine) every type of whisky available!!
The lovely George Hotel bar. VERY busy for food – bookings essential, I reckon..png
The lovely George Hotel bar. VERY busy for food – bookings essential, I reckon.

Oh – and I saw these and just HAD to try them (I wasn't overly impressed – to me, they just tasted of a lot of pepper and a vague hint of some type of meat!):
Yuck. The seagulls had most of them.png
Yuck. The seagulls had most of them :-(

Back at the 'van, I was visited by a chap (who had parked his self-build camper a little further up the car park (away from the main road)), who asked if he could look at the conversion of my 'van, as he'd wanted the same but couldn't find one available! As he left, he said that if I had any bother at all during the night from drunks or boy racers, just to lean on the horn and he'd come over straight away. Kindness again – seems as though wild campers look out for and stick up for one another :-D

Seen: Herons, Sea Eagle (flying near Castle Lachlan), Grouse, Partridge (sadly, no otters at Otter Ferry :-( )
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Ellie and Me - T5 travels, Scotland ... (mostly)

Postby Mary » Fri Oct 07, 2016 10:59 am

South now – to Tarbert and Southend

Up early (@ 06.30), and pleasantly surprised to find the public lavatories already open :-)
Low cloud was hanging over Loch Fyne – quiet eerie, especially as there was nobody else around.
Loch Fyne .png

Set off, southwards again, though Lochgilphead and on to Tarbert.
Fish farming on Loch Fyne.png
Fish farming on Loch Fyne

Tarbert couldn't be more different from Inverary – what a charming fishing village! However, the wet-fish shop was closed and there were no dog-friendly seafood restaurants and I was getting rather disappointed that I couldn't buy any of the fresh catch :cry
Stacks of lobster pots in Tarbert – nowhere to buy any.png
Stacks of lobster pots in Tarbert – nowhere to buy any

Bought provisions and then carried on to Campbeltown, on the main road (intending to drive back up the coast road in due course).
Here, there was good data reception, so caught up with e-mail and had lunch. Whilst I was sitting in the 'van, I saw a trio of older folk walking towards me. One of them fell heavily, ending up sprawled in the gutter, so I rushed out to see if she was ok and to offer her assistance. She said she was fine and declined my offer of a glass of water. We got chatting. She was Jessie (82) with her sister, Mary (80) and Mary's husband, Tom (age unknown ;-) ). They told me of a basic campsite in their home village of Southend, right at the end of the peninsular, overlooking Brunerican Bay, Sheep Island and Sanda Island. Mary also mentioned that her daughter ran the hotel/pub in the village.

After making sure that Jessie really was ok, I decided to take the 3-km walk to the causeway across the bay (which can only be crossed at low tide) to Davaar Island. The tide was perfect for the walk across – still going out, so there would be plenty of time for me to walk across, have a look around and get back before the tide came back in.

There are a number of sea caves on the island, including one with a famous crucifixion painting, and a lighthouse at the northern most point.
Perfect timing to walk out to Davaar Island, but …..png
Perfect timing to walk out to Davaar Island, but ….

When I got to the causeway, and to my dismay, I saw a big sign which (as well as warning about how swift the incoming tide is), stated that NO DOGS were allowed on the island, as the inhabitants were goats. Groan. Oh well. We walked back to Campbeltown. It was a lovely walk, though.

Arriving at Southend, I found the campsite, but was mystified as to how to pay! No reception, not even a little hut with somebody collecting money. Most peculiar. So I asked one of the chaps who was already pitched. He told me, “Oh, you have to go up to the farmhouse and pay and get a key for the toilets (£5 deposit). Wait a minute,” he looked over the fence towards the farmhouse, “oh no – there's no point in going up there at the moment. The cows are in, so they're doing the milking. Leave it a couple of hours before you go. Oh – and don't let your dog out up there, the farm dogs are a 'bit vicious'!”

Ok. Only one thing to do – head for the pub/hotel (which I'd passed on the way to the campsite). The Argyll Arms – nice place (being renovated when I was there, but still open for business), run by the really friendly Lynn (who I realised a couple of days later must have been Mary's daughter!!!).
Ellie and I retired to the Beer Garden and I supped a nice pint. Lynn brought water out for Ellie and we talked for a while. I was just considering whether to have another, when a couple came out into the garden (Diane and Tim). We introduced ourselves and settled down for a good ol' chin-wag. You know that (rare) feeling when you meet people and it feels like you've known them for years and years? Well – THAT!!

Rather than risk driving over the limit (Warning: the 'limit' is a lot lower in Scotland!!) I asked Lynn if it would be ok for me to overnight in the hotel/pub car park. She said, “Of course!” and when I offered her payment, refused point-blank.

So, Diane, Tim and I settled down for more drinks and they told me that it was their last night there – they were off in the morning. Suddenly, Diane asked me if I'd like to join them back at their rented cottage to help finish off the remaining food and drink. I accepted like a shot and, having taken my guitar out of the 'van, we set off. Down the road, along a lane, over the golf course (stopping to chat to a man and his two sons who were fishing) to a really sweet little cottage. What followed was a hilarious evening :-) Sitting out in the mild air, food was eaten, drinks were drunk, tales and jokes were told and I played them a few songs.
Diane and I (yep – the photo is a bit 'fuzzy', but then so were we by the time this was taken – hehehe).png
Diane and I (yep – the photo is a bit 'fuzzy', but then so were we by the time this was taken – hehehe). Credit. Diane Darlington

As the light was draining from the sky, a little boat came to the small slipway in front of the cottage. Two fishermen jumped out, unloading their catch of pollock. Dianne offered them a beer. They declined. She asked them if they could spare one of the fish. They said they could and handed over a HUGE one.

Back in the cottage kitchen, Diane (extremely pleased with her gift) searched for a suitable knife to 'deal' with it. Knives? – yep. Sharp knives suitable for de-heading a de-scaling a large (and very slippery) fish? - nope! Sadly, the fish had to be given to the owner of the cottage (he took it with glee).
Eventually, I bid farewell to Diane and Tim walked me back to the road. What wonderful people! I'll be visiting them in the future (and they'd be most welcome here if they come down this way).

Back at the pub (and well gone 'English' closing time!), I heard music coming from the pub. Looking in, I saw the room full of people – it was karaoke night!!
So, in I went (with guitar still on back), joined in with a few harmonies with the 'King of Karaoke' and played a bit for them. One of the customers asked me to play again – saying that they'd rather hear me than karaoke, but I could see the disappointment on the face of the KoK, so politely declined.
More (excellent) beer was drunk and I finally flopped into bed in the 'van at 01.46!!

A cracker of a day!!

Seen: More herons, gulls (various, many), and cormorants. Two of the cormorants seemed, to me, to be competing to see who could hold their breath for the longest. Whilst I was watching, the one on the left was winning :wink
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Ellie and Me - T5 travels, Scotland ... (mostly)

Postby Mary » Sat Oct 08, 2016 10:37 am

Southend and Carradale

Despite the previous late night, I was up at 08.15, drank tea and then moved the 'van a short way to a layby looking out over Brunerican Bay where I made breakfast. There I met an elderly, local man, who told me of some of the things to see in the area.
Looking out over Brunerican Bay, with Sanda Island in the background.png
Looking out over Brunerican Bay, with Sanda Island in the background

I became aware of two people walking along the beach in my direction – it was Diane and Tim, coming to say 'Goodbye' to me again – hahaha!
Diane & Tim.png

From Southend, I drove the single-track coastal road Westwards. Along this stretch of coast there is a fairly large seal colony (although there weren't many there to greet me).
Seals at Southend .png
Seals at Southend (again, no otter sighting/s – I was very envious of Diane and Tim, who had seen them on the beach right outside their cottage!)

Further along the road, I parked in a layby and walked to up see St Columba's Footprints and St Columba's Well.
St Columba's Footprints.png
St Columba's Footprints

At the top of a flight of steps, at the top of a stony outcrop, there are two carved 'footprints'. The more southerly is laid parallel to the shore, while the other is at 90 degrees to it. Each print is a little less than a third of a metre in length, and between them is carved the number '564'. Columba landed here in 563 – it's believed that the second footprint was carved at a later date and the stone mason got the date wrong – tehehe.

Footprints carved into stones are found in a number of places in Ireland and Scotland, and are usually associated with king-making ceremonies.
A short distance away is St Columba's Well - a rocky bowl, carved into the slope, where water collects from a spring.
St Columba's Well.png
St Columba's Well

A short walk to the West of these features are the Keil Caves. There are several of them, the following photo is of the Great Cave.
The Great Cave at Keil..png
The Great Cave at Keil.

Excavations of the caves suggest that they have seen human occupation during many different periods, ranging from prehistoric residents (tidy enough to bury the shells from the shellfish they ate in a pit), into the age of Dalriada (late 6th–early 7th centuries) and more recently, too. The 1881 Census reports that Keil Cave was home to John McFee, a 22 year old tinsmith, his 21 year old wife Margaret, and their young son Andrew, together with John's cousin Alex McCallum, a 45 year old basket-maker, his wife Mary and their daughter Bella.
cormorant.png
I'm pretty sure that this is a cormorant (although it might be a juvenile shag (no tittering at the back, please :-) ), in typical pose with outstretched wings.

From High Keil, I continued along the switch-back, steep and single-track road to the lighthouse overlooking the Mull of Kintyre (“oh mist rolling in from the sea” - have I given you an ear-worm now?). Quite a stressful road to drive, but at least I got used to using the Tiptronic transmission on the 'van!
Looking out over the Mull of Kintyre.png
Looking out over the Mull of Kintyre, with the lighthouse below. The black specks in the photo aren't caused by a dirty lens – there were thousands of black, long-legged flies here (St Mark’s Fly, totally harmless!)

Walking down to the lighthouse.png
Walking down to the lighthouse (the Earth's curve is obvious from up here!)

The lighthouse, first lit on 1 November 1788, is set 240 feet above the sea near the rocks known as 'The Merchants of Three Pedlars'. The lighthouse was rebuilt in 1821 and, as the area is frequently shrouded in mist, it was equipped with a fog signal in 1876, sounded by steam or compressed air.
The lighthouse fog horn..png
The lighthouse fog horn.

The 1.5-mile walk down was lovely, but the walk back up was REALLY hard going – even Ellie was 'dragging' by the time we got to the top again. After driving back along the steep road, I headed for Campbeltown again, for another 'hit' of Internet connection.
Highly scented heather along the road to the Mull of Kintyre lighthouse..png
Highly scented heather along the road to the Mull of Kintyre lighthouse.

Amazingly, in Campbeltown I met Diane and Tim again! They went off to catch their ferry, only to return a short while later to ask if they could use my 'net connection to confirm their booking. Then they hurtled off again (I found out later that the confirmation didn't come through in time, but they paid for another ticket and made the 'booked' sailing).

I'd already decided that I would drive up the Eastern side of the peninsular and found myself in Carradale. After wild camping so far, I allowed myself the luxury of booking into a 'proper' campsite – Carradale Bay Caravan Park (http://www.carradalebay.com/). The welcome was warm, the facilities were excellent and my pitch was almost on the beach.

Whilst walking Ellie along the beach, I met a man who had been fishing and he told me about the feral Carradale goats (he showed me a photo on his mobile), so I walked further to see if I could catch a glimpse of them. To no avail – they had moved round the headland :(
The beautiful Carradale goats.png
The beautiful Carradale goats
Credit: Carradale Harbour on Kintyre

On the beach, I saw thousands upon thousands of weird-looking shells/egg cases. I took one home but I still haven't been able to identify what they are :(

Funny thing: Driving along the road back from the lighthouse, I saw what appeared to be a dead dog lying in the middle of the road. I drove slowly towards it. It didn't move. Really concerned by now, I carefully advanced. It still didn't move. Thoughts of having to go to the nearby farmhouse to report the tragedy ran through my head. Eventually, I shouted out of the window at it, “Hey – get up!” and the dog gradually lifted its head, stared at me for a while and then heaved itself up and wandered to the grass verge. I guess that was its favourite sunbathing spot!!


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