Ellie and Me – T5 travels
Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2016 8:51 am
To Moniaive – home to lots of music (and other stuff) ….
On the recommendation of two good friends (Matt and Blanty) I now headed off towards Moniaive, which is a lovely, friendly village - only to discover that I'd missed their annual music festival by one week – disappointment
http://www.moniaive.org.uk/home
'Wild camped' in the village car park.
I popped into the pub/hotel (The Craigdarroch Arms Hotel) for a pint and to ask the landlord if it would be ok for me to go back later and use their wi-fi. He was really chatty and said it wouldn't be a problem. He also gave me a leaflet, which gives information on all of the forthcoming events to be held in the village for 2016 – so many things going on for such a small village, including music/jam sessions, sports events/clubs, poetry workshops and various exhibitions. How wonderful that the community is involved in such a variety of activities. Respect.
Supper was one of those 'camping' dinners. Pre-packed, gluten-free. A bit 'gloopy', but it was ok (I added some rice, but it was still quite 'glutinous', which is at odds to the gluten-free description - ).
I needed to find somewhere I could get mobile signal, so I hiked up the road with Ellie, until I found somewhere. Called my parents to confirm that I would be visiting them in the holiday cottage they'd rented, later in the month.
Then, back to the pub to catch up on e-mail and let people know, via Facebook, that I was still alive (and to sup a couple of pints, of course).
After an uneventful (and peaceful) night (thumb nail now a nice dark black) , I had a decision to make: Head to the West Coast? Or drive the 7-mile, single-track road to see the Striding Arches? Oh, go on then – let's drive another rough track – why not?
Striding Arches is an artist-led project which celebrates and interprets a little known area of Dumfries & Galloway in south-west Scotland. Andy Goldsworthy’s red sandstone arches ‘stride’ around the natural amphitheatre that is Cairnhead, deep in the Southern Uplands. In the heart of the glen, another arch springs from a disused farm building, The Byre, creating a place that is both sculpture and shelter.
http://www.stridingarches.com/
It was slow going along the track – it starts out as a metalled road, quickly deteriorating into a very rough track, with more potholes than solid surface. I took it very gently, but it still gave the 'shocks' on the van a good workout.
There was nobody else there when I arrived at the starting point for two of the 'Arches' walks , which was a good job as the 'car park' is just a couple of lay-bys and it took me a while, jiggering back and forth, to get the van in neatly and out of the way of any passing forestry vehicles.
First, we took the walk up to The Byre Arch.
Returning to the van, we then struck out for the nearest of the hilltop arches, at the summit of Colt Hill (598 metres). I have to admit – it was a slog. No respite from the continuous uphill gradient, brilliant sunshine (again – I was so lucky with the weather on this part of the trip!). Mile after mile (6 miles in total), up a rough forestry track. But ….. there was beautiful scenery to admire and the occasional glimpse of the Arch kept us going.
The final stretch up to the Arch is over fell and quite steep. And then, coming over the brow of a rise, I was met with this sight:
From each of the three hill-top Arches, you can see two others (if the weather allows, which it did for me).
Each arch stands just under four metres high, with a span of about seven metres, and consists of 31 blocks of hand-dressed red sandstone weighing approximately 27 tons.
It was well worth the hike up – the 360 deg views were stunning. It was windy and wild.
I wish I'd had time to go to the other two arches, but there are no 'official' footpaths between them (deliberately – you must find your own way) and although the weather conditions were perfect for me to do so, I didn't have enough time. I'd like to go back and do it some time, though.
I'd taken food and water (as I always do) and we both ate, then walked back down to the van – a much easier walk, naturally.
Ellie was tired and so was I. We drove off back along the bumpy track – and she was promptly sick. Poor Ellie, all that jolting around on a full tummy, I wasn't surprised.
Lesson learned: Don't feed Ellie midday (even if on a very long walk) if we're going to travel onwards. I can always make sure that she gets the extra calories she needs on a 'rest day' (not many of those, so I mostly just give her extra rations daily).
Total distance walked: Just more than 12.5 miles.
…. and onwards to Port Logan
Now we went back to the West Coast – to a site that had been recommended to me by fellow campers at Garlieston. I have to say that I had reservations. I've met them to twice (unusual). The first time I saw them, they spent more than three hours (I kid you not), trying to get their satellite dish aligned so that they could watch TV in their caravan.
(I've made a conscious decision not to get TV in the van - it came with the 'added bonus' of a small TV and aerial, but I can't see the point of going out into the wild and then plugging yourself into main-stream TV. When I go away, I want to get away from all that stuff. I sew, I read, I noodle around on the guitar. I take time to cook and enjoy simple food. I sit and listen to the sounds of the countryside. I feel absolutely no need to be constantly in touch with folk. And I walk. I walk at dawn, at dusk, in sun, rain, wind and in head-torch-lit dark.)
I needn't have been worried about going to the commercial site (New England Bay, Port Logan (Camping Club) http://www.caravanclub.co.uk/caravanclu ... csid=21945 ).
Right on the beach, the site has plenty of pitches available all of which were pretty much level and although being a big site, it was rather pleasant. The grass is kept short by hundreds of brazen rabbits. I assumed that there was an abundance as few natural predators would dare to come into an area with so many people about (although I did see the signs of a 'demise' early the next morning). I guess the owners/managers of the site were happy not to have to mow the grass – hahaha.
I took Ellie for a long walk along the beach before supper. I noticed that; a) my van was the smallest outfit on site (again), b) almost all of the caravanners were old (not too surprising, out of season as it was) and c) there were lots of dogs.
I'd bought bacon (and small, locally baked loaf of seeded bread), so set about cooking dinner – softened shallot, added bacon and garlic, pesto, water, stock cube and rice. Plenty of it, too, after walking for such a long way today.
I'd wanted to do some washing today, but a water pipe had burst near to the site, which meant that there were no laundry facilities (and the toilet blocks were closed for several hours, much to the annoyance/distress of some of the 'older' folk onsite!).
Seen: Red kites, pheasants, a pair of white-fronted geese, kestrel
Handy hint: Baby wipes get rid of the smell of onion and garlic from your hands/fingers!
Woke early the next day to another glorious morning! By 8 am, I was tucking into an egg and bacon buttie (no HP sauce – disaster :-( ).
I decided, that as it was a Sunday, we should have a fairly leisurely day, so we drove to take a look around Port Logan and Drummore, along coastal roads, and then to re-visit Portpatrick for lunch.
It was really relaxing, sitting out side the pub/Hotel (Crown Hotel), eating mussels and crab and people-watching (and inwardly giggling at some of the conversations overheard). I also managed to 'procure' some sachets of tomato and HP sauce – hooray!
http://www.crownportpatrick.com/index.html
(Also, received two more offers to, “Tak' yer wee dug haem”.!! Yeh – right.)
Back at the site, I wandered off to do a load of washing. Now, I'm not daft (some might disagree), but I couldn't make head nor tail of the 'instructions' given for the washing machine. So, I shoved some money in - £4 plus another £1 for an extra rinse and high spin. This was meant to deliver a 30-minute wash cycle plus the extra bit. I pushed the start button. Nothing happened. I then turned my attention to the variety of other buttons, none of which gave any clear indication of on what they were for. After making an less-than-desirably informed decision, I pushed two buttons, then the start. Imagine my surprise when the machine flashed a little message up at me '10-minute cool, quick-wash'!!! Horror!! £5 for a 10-minute wash? Oh well, at least I'd remembered to put the washing liquid in. Or had I? After fretting for a few seconds, I worked out that I had – phew!
I feel I ought to mention that it's very windy at this site. Being right next to the beach, there are strong off- and on-shore 'breezes' and whilst this can make evenings and nights rather chilly, there is the advantage that your washing will be dry in no time at all.
Lessons learned: Always have plenty of £1 and 50p coins stashed away.
Buy (or make) a clothes airer.
Whilst my dinner was simmering, I indulged in a glass of nice, cold Chardonnay. I don't take a wine glass with me – a mug will suffice. Sitting outside the van in the early evening sunshine, I went to take a sip of the golden liquid, and noticed quite a few black specks suspended in it. I looked at the bottle, but there were none in it. Perplexed, I finally realised that it was black pepper. I store the salt and pepper pots in two of the mugs when travelling – hahaha. The pepper certainly added a 'certain something' to the flavour of the wine – not unpleasant, really – but I won't be adding it deliberately in the future ;-)
Lesson learned: Check your mug before pouring.
Another long walk along the beach before bed – tired and happy.
Seen: A pair of swans in the middle of a field.
On the recommendation of two good friends (Matt and Blanty) I now headed off towards Moniaive, which is a lovely, friendly village - only to discover that I'd missed their annual music festival by one week – disappointment
http://www.moniaive.org.uk/home
'Wild camped' in the village car park.
I popped into the pub/hotel (The Craigdarroch Arms Hotel) for a pint and to ask the landlord if it would be ok for me to go back later and use their wi-fi. He was really chatty and said it wouldn't be a problem. He also gave me a leaflet, which gives information on all of the forthcoming events to be held in the village for 2016 – so many things going on for such a small village, including music/jam sessions, sports events/clubs, poetry workshops and various exhibitions. How wonderful that the community is involved in such a variety of activities. Respect.
Supper was one of those 'camping' dinners. Pre-packed, gluten-free. A bit 'gloopy', but it was ok (I added some rice, but it was still quite 'glutinous', which is at odds to the gluten-free description - ).
I needed to find somewhere I could get mobile signal, so I hiked up the road with Ellie, until I found somewhere. Called my parents to confirm that I would be visiting them in the holiday cottage they'd rented, later in the month.
Then, back to the pub to catch up on e-mail and let people know, via Facebook, that I was still alive (and to sup a couple of pints, of course).
After an uneventful (and peaceful) night (thumb nail now a nice dark black) , I had a decision to make: Head to the West Coast? Or drive the 7-mile, single-track road to see the Striding Arches? Oh, go on then – let's drive another rough track – why not?
Striding Arches is an artist-led project which celebrates and interprets a little known area of Dumfries & Galloway in south-west Scotland. Andy Goldsworthy’s red sandstone arches ‘stride’ around the natural amphitheatre that is Cairnhead, deep in the Southern Uplands. In the heart of the glen, another arch springs from a disused farm building, The Byre, creating a place that is both sculpture and shelter.
http://www.stridingarches.com/
It was slow going along the track – it starts out as a metalled road, quickly deteriorating into a very rough track, with more potholes than solid surface. I took it very gently, but it still gave the 'shocks' on the van a good workout.
There was nobody else there when I arrived at the starting point for two of the 'Arches' walks , which was a good job as the 'car park' is just a couple of lay-bys and it took me a while, jiggering back and forth, to get the van in neatly and out of the way of any passing forestry vehicles.
First, we took the walk up to The Byre Arch.
Returning to the van, we then struck out for the nearest of the hilltop arches, at the summit of Colt Hill (598 metres). I have to admit – it was a slog. No respite from the continuous uphill gradient, brilliant sunshine (again – I was so lucky with the weather on this part of the trip!). Mile after mile (6 miles in total), up a rough forestry track. But ….. there was beautiful scenery to admire and the occasional glimpse of the Arch kept us going.
The final stretch up to the Arch is over fell and quite steep. And then, coming over the brow of a rise, I was met with this sight:
From each of the three hill-top Arches, you can see two others (if the weather allows, which it did for me).
Each arch stands just under four metres high, with a span of about seven metres, and consists of 31 blocks of hand-dressed red sandstone weighing approximately 27 tons.
It was well worth the hike up – the 360 deg views were stunning. It was windy and wild.
I wish I'd had time to go to the other two arches, but there are no 'official' footpaths between them (deliberately – you must find your own way) and although the weather conditions were perfect for me to do so, I didn't have enough time. I'd like to go back and do it some time, though.
I'd taken food and water (as I always do) and we both ate, then walked back down to the van – a much easier walk, naturally.
Ellie was tired and so was I. We drove off back along the bumpy track – and she was promptly sick. Poor Ellie, all that jolting around on a full tummy, I wasn't surprised.
Lesson learned: Don't feed Ellie midday (even if on a very long walk) if we're going to travel onwards. I can always make sure that she gets the extra calories she needs on a 'rest day' (not many of those, so I mostly just give her extra rations daily).
Total distance walked: Just more than 12.5 miles.
…. and onwards to Port Logan
Now we went back to the West Coast – to a site that had been recommended to me by fellow campers at Garlieston. I have to say that I had reservations. I've met them to twice (unusual). The first time I saw them, they spent more than three hours (I kid you not), trying to get their satellite dish aligned so that they could watch TV in their caravan.
(I've made a conscious decision not to get TV in the van - it came with the 'added bonus' of a small TV and aerial, but I can't see the point of going out into the wild and then plugging yourself into main-stream TV. When I go away, I want to get away from all that stuff. I sew, I read, I noodle around on the guitar. I take time to cook and enjoy simple food. I sit and listen to the sounds of the countryside. I feel absolutely no need to be constantly in touch with folk. And I walk. I walk at dawn, at dusk, in sun, rain, wind and in head-torch-lit dark.)
I needn't have been worried about going to the commercial site (New England Bay, Port Logan (Camping Club) http://www.caravanclub.co.uk/caravanclu ... csid=21945 ).
Right on the beach, the site has plenty of pitches available all of which were pretty much level and although being a big site, it was rather pleasant. The grass is kept short by hundreds of brazen rabbits. I assumed that there was an abundance as few natural predators would dare to come into an area with so many people about (although I did see the signs of a 'demise' early the next morning). I guess the owners/managers of the site were happy not to have to mow the grass – hahaha.
I took Ellie for a long walk along the beach before supper. I noticed that; a) my van was the smallest outfit on site (again), b) almost all of the caravanners were old (not too surprising, out of season as it was) and c) there were lots of dogs.
I'd bought bacon (and small, locally baked loaf of seeded bread), so set about cooking dinner – softened shallot, added bacon and garlic, pesto, water, stock cube and rice. Plenty of it, too, after walking for such a long way today.
I'd wanted to do some washing today, but a water pipe had burst near to the site, which meant that there were no laundry facilities (and the toilet blocks were closed for several hours, much to the annoyance/distress of some of the 'older' folk onsite!).
Seen: Red kites, pheasants, a pair of white-fronted geese, kestrel
Handy hint: Baby wipes get rid of the smell of onion and garlic from your hands/fingers!
Woke early the next day to another glorious morning! By 8 am, I was tucking into an egg and bacon buttie (no HP sauce – disaster :-( ).
I decided, that as it was a Sunday, we should have a fairly leisurely day, so we drove to take a look around Port Logan and Drummore, along coastal roads, and then to re-visit Portpatrick for lunch.
It was really relaxing, sitting out side the pub/Hotel (Crown Hotel), eating mussels and crab and people-watching (and inwardly giggling at some of the conversations overheard). I also managed to 'procure' some sachets of tomato and HP sauce – hooray!
http://www.crownportpatrick.com/index.html
(Also, received two more offers to, “Tak' yer wee dug haem”.!! Yeh – right.)
Back at the site, I wandered off to do a load of washing. Now, I'm not daft (some might disagree), but I couldn't make head nor tail of the 'instructions' given for the washing machine. So, I shoved some money in - £4 plus another £1 for an extra rinse and high spin. This was meant to deliver a 30-minute wash cycle plus the extra bit. I pushed the start button. Nothing happened. I then turned my attention to the variety of other buttons, none of which gave any clear indication of on what they were for. After making an less-than-desirably informed decision, I pushed two buttons, then the start. Imagine my surprise when the machine flashed a little message up at me '10-minute cool, quick-wash'!!! Horror!! £5 for a 10-minute wash? Oh well, at least I'd remembered to put the washing liquid in. Or had I? After fretting for a few seconds, I worked out that I had – phew!
I feel I ought to mention that it's very windy at this site. Being right next to the beach, there are strong off- and on-shore 'breezes' and whilst this can make evenings and nights rather chilly, there is the advantage that your washing will be dry in no time at all.
Lessons learned: Always have plenty of £1 and 50p coins stashed away.
Buy (or make) a clothes airer.
Whilst my dinner was simmering, I indulged in a glass of nice, cold Chardonnay. I don't take a wine glass with me – a mug will suffice. Sitting outside the van in the early evening sunshine, I went to take a sip of the golden liquid, and noticed quite a few black specks suspended in it. I looked at the bottle, but there were none in it. Perplexed, I finally realised that it was black pepper. I store the salt and pepper pots in two of the mugs when travelling – hahaha. The pepper certainly added a 'certain something' to the flavour of the wine – not unpleasant, really – but I won't be adding it deliberately in the future ;-)
Lesson learned: Check your mug before pouring.
Another long walk along the beach before bed – tired and happy.
Seen: A pair of swans in the middle of a field.