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Ellie and Me - T5 travels, Scotland ... (mostly)

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Ellie and Me - T5 travels, Scotland ... (mostly)

Postby Mary » Sun Oct 16, 2016 3:02 pm

Gatehouse Lodge, Skipness Castle.png
Gatehouse Lodge, Skipness Castle
Carradale to Skipness to Kilberry to Loch Caolisport to Crinan to Loch Sween

Awoke to a beautiful sunrise and another glorious morning.
sunrise.png

Carradale morning.png
Carradale morning

An 'easy' day today – lovely hot shower, washing done and a long walk with Ellie along the beach. I saw the goats in the distance, but couldn't get close enough to take a photo.

Packed up and headed up along the East Coast road of Kintyre to Skipness and then to Skipness Castle. What a lucky find I had there! Tucked away behind a hedgerow here is the wonderful Seafood Cabin.
Seafood Cabin, Skipness.png
Seafood Cabin, Skipness

As well as excellent food, there are ponies, dogs and chickens for kids to pet .png
As well as excellent food, there are ponies, dogs and chickens for kids to pet – oh, and a red deer doe just wanders about, eating with the other diners (grass for her, of course)!!

At last, my craving for fresh, local seafood was satisfied ….
seafood.png

…. and I spent a happy couple of hours eating, admiring the views and chatting to other diners. This place is a MUST if you're in the area and like seafood!!

Stuffed to the gills, I wandered around Skipness Castle for a while and then back to Tarbert for supplies before taking a quiet B Road into Knapdale.
Skipness Castle.png
Skipness Castle

Gatehouse Lodge, Skipness Castle.png
Gatehouse Lodge, Skipness Castle

Again taking the coastal road, I ventured to see the Sculptured Stones at Kilberry. Under a purpose-built display area, there are 26 sculptured stones from the Campbell family mausoleum, near the castle, and around the Kilberry estate. The stones cover a range of styles and eras, from early Christian grave-slabs to late-medieval cross fragments.
Medieval grave slabs, Kilberry.png
Medieval grave slabs, Kilberry

A little further on, I found a large layby looking out of Loch Caolisport, where I parked up for the night. Still feeling full from the excellent (late) lunch, my supper was just fresh fruit and nuts. Sat watching the tide finish going out and start to come in again – more like 'Sitting on the bay of a loch' than 'Sitting on the dock of the bay' :wink

Seen: Golden Eagle.

Lesson learned: Go with your gut instinct – I had been told that there was a very good seafood restaurant in Skipness and found it by following my nose.

The following morning was dull and overcast, but no rain – certainly no reason not to walk Ellie on the loch beach, where we saw some MASSIVE stranded jellyfish (kept Ellie well away from them).
Loch Caolisport.png
Loch Caolisport

Once again, as I was packing up, the sun came out and stayed out as we ventured even further Northwards to Lochgilpead. The Crinan Canal runs through the town on its way up to the village of Crinan. I love canals. So, we set off from the centre of the town (free parking, as in most of the Scots towns :-) ), scrambled up a bank and strode along the towpath (6.75 miles in total).
Sailing boat motoring 'down' the Crinan Canal towards Lochgilphead.png
Sailing boat motoring 'down' the Crinan Canal towards Lochgilphead

The Crinan Canal was completed in 1801, to provide a navigable route between the Clyde and the Inner Hebrides, without the need for a long diversion around the Kintyre peninsula, and in particular the exposed, and dangerous, Mull of Kintyre. Between 1930 and 1932, new sea locks were built at either end, making the canal accessible at any state of tide.

The Crinan Canal for me
I don't like the wild raging sea
Them big foamin' breakers
Wad gie ye the shakers
The Crinan Canal for me.
Dan MacPhail - The Vital Spark
Walking up to locks 5-8 at Cairnbaan.png
Walking up to locks 5-8 at Cairnbaan

Fairy doors at Cairnbaan – how lovely .png
Fairy doors at Cairnbaan – how lovely :-)

Water-waster on the Crinan Canal – used to help to maintain the water level in the canal at a constant depth.png
Water-waster on the Crinan Canal – used to help to maintain the water level in the canal at a constant depth

Eventually, we arrived at Crinan.
Looking out over Loch Crinan.png
Looking out over Loch Crinan

Hungry and thirsty, I quenched thirst and banished hunger in the Seafood Bistro there (yep – more seafood, this time in the form of a fish/seafood stew, which was delicious) and met a lovely couple, Kirsty and Fergus (with their dog Cooper). We chatted. They were driving back to Lochgilphead and insisted on giving Ellie and I a lift back there – very nice of them :-)

They also recommended a nice woodland walk in the local area, so off I set.

The Blarbuie woodland, recently renovated, forms part of the sanctuary of Lochgilphead's Argyll and Bute Hospital grounds. It has all-abilities access, outdoor exercise facilities, sculptures and other artworks, is open to all and is planted with a mix of native and exotic trees.
Users of the mental health services and volunteers from all walks of life carry out the woodland restoration and ongoing maintenance, offering people an opportunity to learn new skills and providing meaningful, supported employment. There is also an area where patients can grow vegetables and flowers and sell plants. A lovely, peaceful, relaxing walk here.

More information here: http://www.blarbuiewoodland.org/

From here, I decided to head to the Scottish Beaver Trial site on Loch Coille-Bharr, but arrived quite late in the day and didn't have time to walk the full trail – so just a short 1.5-miler (I reckoned, also, that nearly 10 miles in one day was probably enough :wink ).

Having driven all the way down the peninsular (almost to Keillmore) without finding a 'wild' spot, I eventually parked at Scotnish, Loch Sween. Ellie was fed in the twighlight, amongst ancient oaks, with the gentle sound of wavelets on rocks to lull us to sleep.

Seen: Swallows over the canal (but gathering to go and lining up on the telephone lines), fish eagle (with a fish in its talons – it flew right over my head!) and a red squirrel (crossing the road).





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Ellie and Me - T5 travels, Scotland ... (mostly)

Postby Mary » Tue Oct 18, 2016 1:54 pm

Loch Sween to Oban

Slept fitfully, beneath 'old forest' trees which bent and groaned in the strong wind. But hey – they've been there for hundreds of years, clothed in rare lichens and mosses, withstanding winds much stronger than during that night!! So – up early o'clock and back down the road to the Beaver Trial Area (arriving before 7.30 am).

More information may be found at: http://scottishbeavers.org.uk/visit-knapdale/

Set off on the 3-mile walk, in the hope of seeing them, but, as they're nocturnal, I wasn't TOO disappointed to not see any :(

It was a lovely walk, though – sunshine and light showers - and I did see beaver 'evidence' :-)
Beavers change the landscape in a very dramatic way.png
Beavers change the landscape in a very dramatic way! This is a flooded area behind one of their dams – dead/drowned trees festooned with lichen.

Caution – beavers at work.png
Caution – beavers at work (wish it was in focus!)

Along the walk are the remains of the township called Kilmory Oib, a community of fishermen and farmers – not too surprising with the wealth of rich pickings, both in the sea and on the land in this area. It consists of at least 17 buildings, including houses and byres for animals. There are also two sub-circular piles of rubble, which may be the remains of corn drying kilns.

There is also an early Christian cross-marked stone, which stands beside a small well. It's thought that the stone dates to the C8th or C9th. I couldn’t see it – must have been hidden in the undergrowth.
Part of the long-abandoned township, Kilmory Oib.png
Part of the long-abandoned township, Kilmory Oib

During my walk, I met an older man who had parked up for wild camping in a secluded spot in the forest (away from midges). He and his wife were almost full-time campervanners (or, rather, motorhomers) and he made me laugh when we were discussing how infrequently we actually paid to stay on a site. “Lass”, he told me, “we only go to a campsite for a shower when people start to cross the road when we approach them!!” Gotta love his attitude (mine also *ahem*!) They were both working as University lecturers and decided that the changes in the education system weren't for them, so they left, took other jobs, saved for their motorhome and have been travelling ever since. They wanted to do it whilst they were still physically able. Nice folk.

After tea and toast in the 'van, I took a side-turning to visit Castle Sween (on the opposite (Eastern) shore of Loch Sween). Quite a long, single-track road, and no parking at the castle itself (it's now in the grounds of a HUGE holiday park), but worth the drive and walk.
The East Tower of Castle Sween.png
The East Tower of Castle Sween

The castle is thought to be one of the earliest stone castles constructed in Scotland, having been built sometime in the late C12th. It was the stronghold of Suibhne ‘the Red’ and the MacDonald Lords of the Isles. Archaeological excavation of part of the east range in 1989-90 uncovered evidence of industrial use, including a forge and kilns.
Interior of the main castle, with the castle well at bottom left..png
Interior of the main castle, with the castle well at bottom left.

There are some marvellous features here, including a bread oven, a water spout in the kitchen area and a 'Latrine tower', with the latrine chute still in good condition (NO – I didn't mean that I used it!!!!).

Link for further information: http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/c ... stlesween/

Going back North again, I crossed the Crinan Canal at Bellanoch and drove the straight, single-track road across the stark, but beautiful, peat moors of Moine Mhor.
Part of the vast area of mossy hummocks and open pools on the shallow, peaty dome that is Moine Mhor.png
Part of the vast area of mossy hummocks and open pools on the shallow, peaty dome that is Moine Mhor

I pressed onwards (ever onwards), through Kilmartin (which I will return to on a future trip, as it has an abundance of archaeological features) to my destinations for the night – Oban.

Booked into a very nice Camping and Caravan Club site (North Ledaig Caravan Park), which was a tad expensive by my standards, but I got a lovely pitch on my own (in a block of 6 at the far end of the site, close to the dog walks).

The warden who showed me to my pitch was a chatty and helpful guy. He'd previously been an HGV driver, but got so stressed with the demands of the job that he decided to persuade his wife to return to his home-town and was very happy in his new job as Warden, despite his drop in salary. Another example of my thinking that money isn't everything :-)

Cooking supper (a fusion of beef chilli with some Asian spices and rice), I pondered and mulled over whether to jump the ferry to Mull the next morning.

Nipped to the toilet block for pre-slumber ablutions and when I returned, I discovered that my wooden cooking spoon was missing. Where was it? A hunt ensued (didn't take long, after all the 'van isn't very big!) and I eventually discovered it 'hidden' under the fleece. Partly eaten. Bad, BAD Ellie!!! Fortunately, there weren't any repercussions from this (had horrid thoughts of having to find a vet to do x-rays if things weren't 'normal' the next day. They were, thank goodness.) Of course, I did have to buy a new spoon.

Popped a note up on Facebook about the 'Mull' dilemma and snuggled down for the night.

Rudely awoken next morning, very early, by the sound of a foghorn.

The weather wasn't looking great, so I decided to stay one more night. When I went to pay for the extra night, I discovered that I'd been overcharged for the previous night and got a refund. Result.

The day was spent totally 'chilling' - catching up on FB, e-mail, snoozing, reading, stitching and walking Ellie. If I had but known it, my brother had been to the site and knew that there was a 'you can buy anything here' shop just half a mile away, which sold a large variety of local beers, including heather beer. Darn it.

It was actually really nice to just 'slob' for a day.

Took time in the evening to cook a really nice vegetable risotto. And have a glass (or two) of a rather delicious wine.

Heaven!

Decided I WOULD go to Mull the next day :)


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Ellie and Me - T5 travels, Scotland ... (mostly)

Postby Mary » Tue Oct 18, 2016 2:29 pm

Oban to Mull

Up to sunshine and showers. I was intending to get the 10.50 ferry to Mull, but got talking to 'neighbours' on the site – a much better use of time than driving to Oban in a hurry!
Billy No Mates – top popped up, right by the beach and near the dog walk..png
Billy No Mates – top popped up, right by the beach and near the dog walk.

Having arrived and parked up (again, for free by the harbour-side) I discovered that the next ferry (12.30) was fully booked, and that the first available place was on the 17.05 boat. What to do? The very helpful lady at the Calmac Ticket Office suggested that I park in the 'stand-by' lane and to make sure that I was back in the 'van half an hour before every sailing, just in case there was space.

So, I walked back to the 'van and did just that (having misheard directions from the guy at the entrance boot and driven into the wrong lane at first :( ).

There was a while to wait until the 12.30 departure, so I wandered off to have a look around the town (and to find the lavatories).

I rather liked Oban. Climbing up the narrow streets to explore, I was struck by how interesting the skyline profiles were. Lots of turrets and crenelations.
Oban skyline, with the CalMac terminal just visible..png
Oban skyline, with the CalMac terminal just visible.

My goal was to reach, and look around, McCaig's Tower on Battery Hill
McCaig's Tower, Oban.png
McCaig's Tower, Oban

Built of Bonawe granite, the tower has a circumference of about 200 metres with two-tiers of 94 lancet arches (44 on the bottom and 50 on top). It was built between 1897 June 1902, commissioned and designed by John Stuart McCaig as a lasting monument to his family and to provide work for the local stonemasons during the winter months.

Although McCaig has even grander plans for the tower, including a museum and art gallery with a central tower, his death brought an end to construction with only the outer walls completed.
The view out from McCaig's Tower, with Mull a dark smudge on the horizon..png
The view out from McCaig's Tower, with Mull a dark smudge on the horizon.

On the walk back down to the ferry terminal, I passed several nice art galleries. These pieces of guerilla/urban knitting made me laugh :)
missing pic.jpg

Back at the ferry waiting area, I discovered this gem, 'hiding' behind Terminal 1:
With its own smokehouse.png
With its own smokehouse, this little shack serves the freshest local seafood. A HUGE smoked salmon sandwich (more filling than bread) and a whole dressed crab set me back less than £10 – bargain!!

Ellie was given a 'taster' of the smoked salmon, by one of the serving ladies. She enjoyed (as did I). Here for sale were live crabs, lobsters, mussels, crab claws etc. etc. – all at very reasonable prices. Lots of people stopped to eat.

Back to the queue I waited (with no expectations of getting on) to see if the 12.30 sailing had any spaces. Much to my amazement, there were plenty, so on we drove.

The boat allows dogs to come out of the vehicles – either in any outside space or in a special 'pet' area. Good news.
Goodbye, mainland.png
Goodbye, mainland – hello, Mull!

On the crossing, I met a lovely couple from Connecticut. I was astonished to discover that they had come all the way from the US just for one week in Scotland!!

Ellie was totally at ease on the boat. Several people asked if they could take photos of her (maybe I should start charging?).

Arriving on Mull, I noticed that most of the vehicles were turning left and heading South, but I decided to go North and then round the island in on an anti-clockwise routes.

When on Mull, it seems to be compulsory to go to Tobermory, so I did :-D
Tobermory in the sunshine.png
Tobermory in the sunshine. Yep – it’s just as picturesque as in the brochures/promotional material.

The Mishnish.png
The Mishnish (pub/restaurant/bistro/hotel), first opened in 1869, overlooks the harbour and serves a mean Cullen Skink * drool *.

Fresh provisions obtained, and on the recommendation of my friend Matt, I headed for Calgary Bay. Wow!! It's stunning! And …. it has an 'official' wildcamping area, with 24-hour toilets just across the road (as a Pay-it-Forward gift, I left a loo roll in the ladies before I left), picnic table, BBQ facilities, firepits and large rubbish bins. Perfect!
Rainbow over Calgary Bay, Mull.png
Rainbow over Calgary Bay, Mull

Set up for the night in the official wildcamping area, Calgary Bay, Mull..png
Set up for the night in the official wildcamping area, Calgary Bay, Mull.

Strangely, most of these vehicles didn't stay overnight (there is a campsite just along the road, but why pay when you can stay for free?).
Looking out of the 'van in the twilight, watching the tide come up the little estuary and the weird play of sea versus river water..png
Looking out of the 'van in the twilight, watching the tide come up the little estuary and the weird play of sea versus river water.

Sitting in the gathering gloom, eating crab salad, I saw a car come into the site. The doors flew open and a lady with two small boys hurtled out, carrying their tent which they than proceeded to put up in double-quick time! It was almost like a military operation – I was impressed. As Mum transferred sleeping bags etc. from the car to the tent, the boys gathered firewood and in what seemed like no time at all, they were settled round their campfire.

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Ellie and Me - T5 travels, Scotland ... (mostly)

Postby Mary » Thu Oct 20, 2016 10:50 am

More of Mull (including Ben More)

(Before I move onwards, I thought I'd set out some more major Lessons Learned/adhered to:

1. We all take water for granted. I take 1 x 5 litre container, 1 x 2.5 litre container and 3 x 1 litre bottles of drinking water, but I'm ALWAYS on the lookout for fresh water. When I come home from a trip, it always strikes me just how easy it is to turn on a tap and get as much clean water as I want, but when I'm away it's one of my priorities to find it on a regular basis.

2. I don't worry much about things – I reckon I'm a pretty 'chilled' and easygoing sort of person, but I do have two other concerns/priorities when I'm away: fuel (you never know where the next petrol station will be in the more remote areas, so I try never to let the tank drop below half full) and safety. Regarding the latter, when on campsites I generally don't lock the 'van, but if I'm wild camping I ALWAYS lock myself in at night. Let's face it, it's unlikely that a murderous villain will be wandering around such wild places, but it's better to be safe than sorry!

3. Camera. Always take it with you – you never know when a gorgeous view will reveal itself round a corner. I could have filled the camera's memory cards many times over – just had to try to judge which shots were the more interesting. On the other hand, my brain's 'memory card' holds millions of 'shots' – hahaha.

Right – back to the travels now.)

The following morning, I had the pleasure of actually meeting and speaking with the Mum and boys whose efficiency I'd admired the previous evening. Maggie and her two boys, Michal and Martin. I was amazed to discover that they had been wild camping for quite a while on several islands and were just about to head for Staffa and then home.
Wild kids are happy kids. Michal and Martin by the last campfire of their trip..png
Wild kids are happy kids. Michal and Martin by the last campfire of their trip.
Credit: Maggie Moreira

They all made a real fuss of Ellie (she liked them greatly) and Michal spent a long time getting a knot out from behind one of Ellie's ears for me. Lovely people.
Ellie being.png
Ellie being thoroughly spoilt by the boys!
Credit: Maggie Moreira

I also spent time talking to a father-son team of South African 'twitchers', who told me that they'd seen a pair of Golden Eagles further down the coast and the location of a good overnight spot near Ben More, a lovely couple of lads from the US and a couple from Devon.

Of course, Ellie had a nice walk along the beach and round to Caliach Point.
Beautiful Calgary Bay.png
Beautiful Calgary Bay

Beach art.png
Beach Art (Copyright: MF Webb – ha ha ha)

From the footpath out to Treshnish Point and Caliach Point..png
From the footpath out to Treshnish Point and Caliach Point.

I was quite late leaving the bay, but that didn't matter as I was only going a little further than Knock.

Drove slowly along, partly because the coast road (B8073) is fairly 'hairy' driving and partly because I was watching the scenery and looking out for the pair of Golden Eagles, which I saw, circling overhead!! Nowhere to stop to take photos, though :(

Just before Knock, I took a side-road to visit the Macquarie Mausoleum.
Macquarie Mausoleum.png
Macquarie Mausoleum

Lachlan Macquarie was born in 1761 on the Isle of Ulva. He later became one of the most recognisable characters of Colonial Australia and was described as 'The Father of Australia', due to his good works as Governor of New South Wales from 1810-1821.

Continuing on down the coast, I had no trouble in finding the place to overnight – an 'unofficial' carpark on the sward (or machair (in Scotland, especially the Western Isles): low-lying arable or grazing land formed near the coast by the deposition of sand and shell fragments by the wind).

There were a couple of cars already there and a short while after I'd set up a couple came down the footpath from the top of Ben More. I asked about the walk. They told me that it had taken them 5.5 hours, so no time for me to walk it that day. They advised me that the weather was looking fair for the next day. I realised I'd have to make an early start!

Sitting quietly, eating the last of the crab with rice, I became aware of animals approaching. I hastily got Ellie into the 'van and shut the door – cows with calves can sometimes be unpredictable :(
Here come the girls.png
Here come the girls!

The calves were most interested in the 'van, one rubbed itself on the front bumper whilst a second made good use of one of my wing mirrors as a scratching post!! Yikes!! The group stood around the 'van for ages, mums grooming the calves and letting them feed. Eventually, they moved off (much to my relief) and hunkered down for the night a couple of hundred metres along the road. This was a very good thing indeed, as I needed to find a 'Ladies Bush' and the fact that I couldn't leave the 'van whilst they were there made the need all the more urgent – hehehe.

Seen: A most amusing warning sign on the B8073, 'Free Range Children' and LOTS of bird-watchers.

Next day: woken at just before 07.30 by a strange sound. Looked out, but couldn't see anything. Opened the sliding window and poked my head out – it was a lamb rubbing its horns against the near-side front hub cap!! Seeing me (more likely, seeing Ellie!), it (l)ambled off.

Kettle on, I waited to see what the day would bring weather-wise.

The sun was struggling to break through the clouds, but I decided to walk up Ben More (the only 'Munroe' on Mull) anyway.
Looking down from part way up Ben More, to Ulva.png
Looking down from part way up Ben More, to Ulva

About half way up, I crested a rise and saw that the mountain had its head in cloud – no point in going any further. A pity.

On the way down, I met a few more walkers going up. One of them told me a little story, as we were discussing the terrible midges in-land.

A visitor to Scotland was in a pub, chatting to the barman about the midges. From a corner, an old farmer piped up, “I can tell you what to do about the midges!”. Intrigued, the visitor asked what that was. “Get 500 gms of sugar, add water to make a thick paste and slosh it on every part of your body,” he replied. “Will that stop them biting?” asked the tourist. “No,” said the farmer, “but it will rot their feckin' teeth!!”. (Sweet revenge, maybe? ;-) )

A little disheartened not to get to the top of Ben More, I drove to Fionnphort on the beautiful single-track road. My – but Mull certainly is a picturesque island!

A ferry ride to Iona was a MUST. It's mostly a foot-passenger ferry (with a few delivery vehicles and residents allowed to take their vehicles on it), so boarding was via a ramp resting on the slipway.

Even with the grinding noise of the ramp, the 'slooshing' of the water and the rocking of the boat, Ellie was totally chilled. She walked up the ramp as if she'd been doing it all of her life. Good girl, Ellie.
Waiting for the ferry to Iona to dock..png
Waiting for the ferry to Iona to dock.

I have to say that Iona has a very relaxing feel to it, peaceful and tranquil, despite being quite crowded with tourists.

The Isle of Iona has deep significance for Christians. In 563, Columba (yes, he of the 'footprints') and twelve companions arrived by coracle on Iona, at that time part of a colony on mainland Britain occupied by fellow Scots from his part of Ireland. For the next 34 years, Columba and his monks, from their base on Iona, pursued an active missionary 'outreach', of what has come to be known as Celtic Christianity, throughout the Western Isle and up into the north eastern parts of what is now Scotland.

I didn't have very much time on the island, but did get to see the Nunnery (ruined) and the outside of the Abbey and had a wander round Baile Mòr. There are plenty more sites to see and white sand beaches, so I will probably return at some time in the future.
The Nunnery, Iona.png
The Nunnery, Iona

The Abbey in silhouette.png
The Abbey in silhouette. But wait – 'photo-bombed' by a dragon???? Actually, on reflection, I think it might be one of those long-legged St Marks flies – hahaha.

I had a while to wait for the ferry back, so off to the local pub for a half.
The view back to Mull from the patio outside the Martyrs Bay Restaurant & Bar..png
The view back to Mull from the patio outside the Martyrs Bay Restaurant & Bar.

Back on Mull, I was wondering where to camp for the night when I noticed a small sign pointing along a narrow track, marked 'Campsite'. Quite a long track, which led to Fidden Farm Campsite.

Another beaut of a site. A huge site, with masses of space, I found a pitch overlooking the beaches – and what wonderful beaches they are!!
One of the lovely sandy beaches at Fidden..png
One of the lovely sandy beaches at Fidden.

The site is described as 'basic', but apart from the fact that there are no power or electric hook-up facilities, the rest of them are great. The shower/toilet block has recently been refurbished (to a very high standard) and all of the other usual stuff was there – washing-up area, chemical/waste disposal point, drinking water etc.

At £8.00- per night, I thought it a bargain.

I was told by other campers that it can get VERY busy during high season, with some (selfish) people setting up 'small villages' (tents, vans, cars, windbreaks, gazebos) to reserve their 'favourite spots' and leaving campervans/motorhomes/tents on-site for the whole of the summer season. Plenty of room when I was there, though :-)
Ellie doing one of the things she does best – having a 'wee nap'..png
Ellie doing one of the things she does best – having a 'wee nap'.

The tide.png
Tide nearly in and night nearly here.

A family day out.png
A family day out, gone horribly wrong! “Baaaaabara, Baaaabara – I told you the tide was coming in!!”

Seen: Otter (in the distance and gone before I could get the binoculars out for a better look) :(
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Ellie and Me - T5 travels, Scotland ... (mostly)

Postby Mary » Tue Oct 25, 2016 8:03 am

Fidden to Loch Sunart

Wow – it was windy that night!! I was woken several times by the 'van rocking and then by the 'tick, tick, tick,' of the 'fridge. The pilot light had been blown out and it was trying to re-light itself. Turned it off. In hindsight, what I should have done was to get up and put the top down, but I didn't think it would get worse. No real damage to the 'van in the morning, just a small amount of water ingress through the folding joint at the back of the pop-up roof, where the wind was hitting it with full force.

It was cold, so I had to turn the heater on for the first time in my travels. It's a diesel-powered heater and works really well. I was soon warm and toasty in the 'van. The wind was still a howler and I couldn't get the gas hob to light, so no tea (disaster!!!). I didn't know if it was because I'd run out of gas or because the wind was blowing into the hob's exhaust vent. I was quite surprised to see that none of the tents on the site had been blown away.

I spoke with a very nice girl, who had a tent pitched near to me, and she told me that the pub in Fionnphort had wifi, so off I went for a late breakfast/early lunch. Nice pub, pleasant staff, good food. I was really glad that it had rained during the night – it meant that I had the pleasure of seeing hundreds of waterfalls on the drive up to Fishnish.
Waterfalls along the beautiful A849.png
Waterfalls along the beautiful A849

Waterfalls.png

Waterfalls everywhere, like shining white ribbons and threads, flecked with silver, pouring and splashing down over black or slick grey rocks. Thundering into lochans and rivers which boiled and raced and tumbled to the sea. To lush bays with an abundance of sea animals and seaweeds. Otter heaven! Fresh water for grooming, mating, raising cubs; sea water for fish and molluscs and crabs and FUN!!

There is a road sign which warns of 'Otters for the next 6 miles!', but not a one did I see :(

Ferry crossing Number 4 was Fishnish to Lochaline (short and sweet) and from the latter my route wound up through Morven to Strontian, with the weather clearing and the mountains getting higher and higher – definitely into the Highlands now.

Found a nice campsite overlooking Loch Sunart (Resipole Farm Holiday Park) - £19 for the 'van and me for the night – no charge for Ellie (the site is VERY dog-friendly, too). All the usual facilities and very helpful staff (and if you get to Reception early enough in the morning, they have freshly baked soda bread for sale (baked by a local lady - yum, yum, yum!).

http://www.resipole.co.uk/

The receptionist told me that they had gas bottles if I needed on, but once I'd set up both the 'fridge and the hob worked fine, so it must have been the wind earlier in the day that had stopped them both working – phew!

After the HUGE burger that I'd eaten in Fionnphort (and not having walked far), supper was just soup, bread and fruit.

Walking Ellie, I met a very helpful older couple, who told me of a nice, quite local walk and a couple of wild camping spots nearby.
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Ellie and Me - T5 travels, Scotland ... (mostly)

Postby Mary » Tue Jan 03, 2017 5:53 pm

.... Whose first adventure you can read here .... HERE :mz
Plus Hooray :applause :applause More adventures from the intrepid chums :-D
....


After the last three 'travels', I've finally discovered the 'perfect' shower technique:
1. Remove outdoor shoes and put on flip-flops/crocs etc;
2. Walk into cubicle and place shampoo, shower gel etc. in appropriate place (i.e. IN REACH!);
3. Remove clothes, hanging them so that they are in order of whatever you put on first at the front;
4. Hang towel WITHIN REACH;
5. Shower;
6. Grab towel, dry as much as possible;
7. Dress top half;
8. Wobble about on one leg, whilst drying the other, lifted leg/foot, WITHOUT a) dangling towel on wet floor, b) falling over, c) putting foot down before inserting foot/leg in shorts/trousers, etc. (and therefore having to start again);
9. Repeat the process above for the other leg/foot;
10. Leave cubicle;
11. Grab mop etc. and clean cubicle for next person;
12. Remove flip flops/crocs and put on outdoor shoes;
13. Realise you have left shampoo, shower gel etc. in cubicle;
14. Remove outdoor shoes, put on flip flops/crocs etc.;
15. Enter cubicle;
16. Retrieve left objects;
17. As 10;
18. As 11;
19. As 12;
20. Leave shower block.

See - simple!! :wink

Before 'movin' on up' towards Mallaig, I had a chat with more 'neighbours', who had refurbished an old school on the Isle of Skye and run it as a Bed and Breakfast place. We were discussing the fact that the water in the locality was a lovely 'peaty' colour (think of weak tea) and how nice it tasted. They told me that when they ran the B&B they had a party from the US staying for a weekend. One of the guests asked, “Why is the water such a funny colour? Is it safe to drink?”. To which the host replied, “Oh yes, it's safe to drink – it's that colour because it comes with whisky pre-added!” - hehehe.

As recommended the previous evening, I took a quick trip to Kentra Bay and then the rough track to the ruins of Castle Tioram.
Castle Tioram – access via a causeway at most times, except on spring tides.png
Castle Tioram – access via a causeway at most times, except on spring tides

Here, I walked the 'Silver Walk' (6.5 km). It's described as 'exceptionally rocky and often boggy with unprotected, dangerous drops in places; the return walk over the hill is bleak and very boggy'. I can confirm that all of this is true. If you are a vertigo sufferer, as am I, it's quite 'challenging'. The trail is extremely narrow in places and a real roller-coaster, with steep stone 'steps'. Stout walking boots are a must.

However, the fear was worth it – splendid views out across Loch Moidart.
Looking out over Loch Moidart from the Silver Trail..png
Looking out over Loch Moidart from the Silver Trail.

The Silver Trail – one of the less narrow parts .png
The Silver Trail – one of the less narrow parts !!

I got a bit lost towards the end of the trail, but met a nice young Dutch couple who were in the same predicament. So, together, we forged our way ahead – EU collaboration :-)

On the way back, they took the High Road and I walked back the same way I'd come. I beat them back to the carpark :thumbsup

Back down the bumpy track and then towards Mallaig, via the 'Alternative Coastal Route' – beautiful beaches between Arisiag and Morar, but all of the sites along the road were full. Eventually, I found a carpark at the Silver Sands of Morar, where some kind soul had hacksawed off the 'No Overnight Parking' signs and there were 24-hour toilets.

A lovely walk along the glorious white sands there.
Silver Sands of Morar ('Local Hero' and 'Highlander' were filmed here)..png
Silver Sands of Morar ('Local Hero' and 'Highlander' were filmed here).

There were lots of nice people camping down on the beach and quite a few more turned up at the carpark, asking if I was going to go down for the night. Wish I'd taken a tent with me. If I had, I would have gone. A real broad spectrum of people and all ages – would have been fun.
Ellie was rather tired, after the strenuous walk near Castle Tioram, plus a long walk on the beach..png
Ellie was rather tired, after the strenuous walk near Castle Tioram, plus a long walk on the beach.

Seen: Lots of (screeching) herons, kingfisher (?), sheep warning signs that had been altered with black marker into rhino warning signs :-), seaplane

The following morning, I woke and suddenly thought, “It's time to go home!!”. It was a strong feeling and quite surprised me.

Packed up and headed for home, via cousin Jan's place again.
Final ferry journey, the Corran Ferry.png
Final ferry journey, the Corran Ferry

Whilst back at Fletchertown, I helped out at the 'dig' at Holme Cultram (not digging for me – I was in charge of washing tile faragments, bones etc.).

The West Cumbria Archaeological Society (WCAS) had found three large, almost complete, medieval jugs/pot a few days before I got there, and Jan was in charge of putting them back together.
Jugs.png
One of three medieval jugs/pots found at the latest (and probably last) dig at Holm Cultram.

WCAS has a Facebook page and welcomes new members, especially those who are willing to volunteer to 'dig'!!

https://www.facebook.com/West-Cumbria-A ... 5/?fref=ts
The 'soggy end' of archaeology – but a very interesting trench in which, eventually, the remains of a stone jetty and wooden pilings were found. .png
The 'soggy end' of archaeology – but a very interesting trench in which, eventually, the remains of a stone jetty and wooden pilings were found.

So – back home and journey's end. There is still so much more for me to explore on the West Coast of Scotland and I'm very much looking forward to returning next year (I'm hoping to do some 'island-hopping').

But … my NEXT 'travel' starts very soon.

I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks for reading :-D

For this message the author Mary has received thanks:
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